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Webley Valuemax
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gunsnlandies
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Joined: 25 Jan 2015
Posts: 49
Location: Stowmarket

PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:51 am    Post subject:  Reply with quote

To be on the safe side, I would use a spring compressor. These are rated 20FPE. Getting them out isn't always the problem. Getting them back without one can be.
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Brian

Diana 430, Diana 48 Black Pro, Diana AR8 Blaser, BAM41 and others.
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Joe Hall
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Joined: 05 Jul 2016
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was afraid you would say that I would need a compressor. That means for now I will have to opt for Plan B which is to simply shoot it until I either master the trigger as is or it smoothens itself through use. Someday I will build a spring compressor, but since I have no materials or time for it, that project will have to wait.

Thanks for your advice.
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conair
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Joined: 09 Oct 2013
Posts: 342
Location: near saltburn by sea

PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you only need a compressor for the main spring if you are going to take it out, you dont need to take the main spring out to take the trigger apart.
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Joe Hall
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2016 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

conair wrote:
you only need a compressor for the main spring if you are going to take it out, you dont need to take the main spring out to take the trigger apart.


Thank you very much for that piece of information. Any links on how to re-assemble just in case?
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stevep
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Joined: 17 Oct 2015
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Location: New York State, USA

PostPosted: Sun Jul 17, 2016 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Valumax and my Hatsan Edge are for all intents the same rifle and use the same trigger and there's an easy tweak to make the 2nd stage a bit better.
At the very back of that trigger is a small 3mm screw that will actually adjust a little of the 2nd stage but the factory one isn't long enough. Check your local hardware store and see about getting both an M3x8mm and an M3x10mm screw and replacing that back one. On mine, the 8mm did the trick but i've seen where several owners said they needed to use the 10 mm. I also got mine with allen heads as it's easier sliding an allen wrench down there to adjust vs a phillips head screw driver once you have the rifle back in the stock.
The extra length will let you adjust a little more, just be very careful not to go in too far or you end up with either a hair trigger or the rifle won't cock so you'll have to adjust 1/4 turn at a time until you get it the way you want.
That screw is the small one on the right side of the picture. It's a bit blurry but you can see the allen head screw I used...hope this helps a little.

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Joe Hall
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced the screw. Initially placed a longer screw than necessary which caused the trigger to be blocked preventing the sear to be released. Had a very tense time with a loaded gun and a trigger that would not release the sear. Cut the screw down in size.



I also tried it without the trigger return spring, lighter trigger but this caused difficulty in cocking requiring returning the trigger forward manually so the sear would catch. Probably will have to look for a replacement spring to help lighten the trigger.

Trigger is smoother pulling without polishing of parts yet. Have not screwed up my courage for that yet. Will probably just allow trigger to smoothen with use.
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stevep
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Joined: 17 Oct 2015
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Location: New York State, USA

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2016 4:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing you might have a look at is the front stock screws. If they're done anything like the Hatsan Edge and Striker, there's nothing there but the screw and a star washer and over time, those star washers start grinding on the synthetic stock. Easy fix is a couple of 5mm flat washers placed between the stock and star washer, then tighten them back up and no more slow grinding.
Also don't know if you've already considered this or maybe already done it, but if you have that ringing/rattling in your ear and cheek when shooting, you might try filling that hollow butt stock.
You can use anything you want but a couple retailers here in the States ship pellet tins in heavier grade foam squares, so I took one, cut pieces to fit just loose in there, then gave all the sides a good coating of 100% rubberized silicone and stuffed them in.
Between the 2, it helps deaden some of the sound and also helps a bit with the recoil having the rubberized silicone in there to help absorb some of it and doesn't add much weight if you want to keep the rifle lighter.
The pictures are of my Edge stock using the above but again, you can use pretty much anything...old socks, old rags, maybe an old t-shirt headed for the rag pile....



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Webley Tomahawk .22
Walther Talon .22
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norris
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Joined: 08 Jan 2012
Posts: 70
Location: Shropshire

PostPosted: Tue Feb 21, 2017 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CapitalBee wrote:
Depends how far you want to go. A while ago I shot a mod55 that had had the piston lightened and was short stroked by about 14mm. It was sublime, but you ask yourself "couldn't I have just spent the money on a smoother firing air rifle". I tried just shortening the spring and was left with a lower powered, but still slammy mod 55.


I would be interested to know how the short stroked by 14mm was achieved.
Thanks


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